Delphi Automotive Systems, LLC (Delphi) is recalling certain replacement fuel pump modules, part number FG1155-11B1, sold for use in 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey vehicles
A vehicle that runs out of fuel and stalls has an increased risk of a crash.
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The 2005 Honda Odyssey has 829 NHTSA owner complaints on file — not a small number. 9 active recall campaigns.
The 2005 Honda Odyssey has 829 NHTSA owner complaints and 9 recalls on file (U.S. federal records, as of August 2026). The most-reported system is engine at 122 complaints, typically surfacing around 80,490 miles (~$3,100 to repair). Source: NHTSA Office of Defects Investigation.
| Model year | Owner complaints | Recalls |
|---|---|---|
| 2005 Odyssey (this page) | 829 | 9 |
| 2006 Odyssey | 703 | 4 |
| 2007 Odyssey | 829 | 5 |
| 2008 Odyssey | 499 | 5 |
Below average for the segment. Multiple systems have recurring complaints.
Repair exposure runs above average — only with money set aside and eyes open.
Our read of the federal NHTSA complaint and recall record for this exact year and model — not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection. How we score.
Here's what this model is known to do — so you can inspect for it, price it in, or make the seller fix it before you sign.
⚠ The one to take seriously: body is flagged severe on this model , showing up around 95,462 mi. Inspect it closely on a test drive.
Run the VIN from the listing — 9 active recalls on this model. Recall repairs are always free.
Verdict for buyers: 5.0/10 model. The priciest documented failure is engine (~$3,100) — get the seller's service records for it or inspect closely. Otherwise an average-risk used buy at a fair price.
We tell you what this model is known for and what to inspect — a vehicle-history report tells you what this exact car has been through. Smart buyers get both.
See the full pre-purchase inspection checklist →If you bought a 2003-2007 Odyssey, Pilot, or Accord V6 thinking you were getting a 250,000-mile family hauler, the engine probably held up its end of the bargain. The transmission probably didn’t.
For two decades Honda built one of the best small-engine reputations in the business. The 4-cylinder Civic and Accord, the K-series engines, the bulletproof 5-speed manuals — all earned. Then came the 5-speed automatic behind the J-series V6 in the 2003-2007 Odyssey, Pilot, Acura MDX, Acura TL, and Accord V6, and Honda owners learned that one bad transmission can trump a generation of good engines.
If you’ve got one of these vans or SUVs and the transmission still shifts crisp at 150,000 miles, you got lucky. Most didn’t.
The BAYRA, B7XA, and MDKA family of 5-speed automatics had two related failure modes:
Torque converter and 3rd-4th clutch pack. The third clutch pack runs hot, the fluid breaks down, and clutch material shears off. The shavings circulate through the valve body and torque converter, glazing the converter clutch and causing converter shudder under light throttle. By the time you feel the shudder, the third clutch is on its way out.
Differential bearing. Inside the case, the differential rides on a bearing that wasn’t sized for the torque output of the V6. Bearing fails, differential gets sloppy, you get a whine that grows into a growl. Often heard before any shift problems show up.
The combination meant that by 100,000-180,000 miles, a huge percentage of these transmissions were either slipping, shuddering, or whining — sometimes all three.
Honda extended the powertrain warranty to 7 years/100,000 miles on most affected models when the lawsuits started piling up. They issued a software update intended to “smooth” the converter clutch engagement and reduce heat. They also issued a service bulletin recommending an external transmission cooler upgrade — and on some Odysseys, the dealer would install one for free.
Translation: they knew. The fix was always external cooling and aggressive fluid changes.
Honda’s official position was 90,000-mile fluid intervals. Real-world: change ATF every 30,000 miles, no exceptions. Use Honda Z1 or DW-1 (whichever your year specifies), no substitutes. The drain-and-fill is a 20-minute job — there’s no transmission pan, you pull the drain plug, drop about 3 quarts, put the plug back, refill through the dipstick tube. Do it three times in a row spaced over a week of driving and you’ve effectively done a full fluid exchange without paying a shop $300 for a flush.
Add an external cooler if you tow, live anywhere south of the Red River, or both. ATF temps over 220°F kill these transmissions. A B&M or Hayden universal cooler, $80, mounted in front of the radiator, will drop your operating temp 30-40°F and add years to the unit. I’d put one on every Odyssey in DFW if I had my way.
You’ve got a small window. If you act on the first sign of light-throttle shudder:
You might buy yourself another 30,000-50,000 miles. Maybe more.
If you ignore the shudder and let it progress to slipping, flaring, or hard shifts, you’re looking at a rebuilt or replacement transmission.
On a 2005 Odyssey with 175,000 miles worth maybe $4,000 running, you’re looking at a transmission job that costs as much as the van. That’s why you see so many of these in the salvage yards. Owners do the math and walk away.
A 2003-2007 Odyssey or Pilot with the V6 and 5-speed auto is a buy only if:
Otherwise, walk. The 2008-plus Odyssey with the 5-speed (and later the 6-speed) is a substantially different and more reliable transmission. The V6 itself is fine — the J35 is one of the great minivan engines. It’s just married to a transmission that doesn’t deserve it.
If you already own one: the cheapest insurance is a cooler, a fluid change every 30,000, and easy driving. That trio has saved more of these transmissions than Honda’s software update ever did.
When owners report each system failing, in actual miles — so you can see what's likely behind you, what's due around now, and what to budget for next. Enter your mileage to mark where you are.
"Typical" = median owner-reported failure mileage from the NHTSA complaint record for this exact year and model. Not a maintenance schedule — a heads-up on where this model's failures cluster.
2005 Honda odyssey ex-l - around 50k miles, the power steering was intermittently hard, especially in parking lots. Very little assist. Around 64k, our mechanic purged the p/s pump of fluid and the problem remained. Mechanic replaced our p/s pump which seemed to work…
This issue is related to the electric sliding doors for a 2005 Honda odyssey ex. The right passenger electric sliding door stopped working when the odometer read 99722. At the time it stopped working, the van was parked in a parking lot. When the button was pressed to open the…
Rolling side doors - and rear hatch struts massive problems. Bought car in jan 2006, new. In 2007 one of the side doors quit rolling. Had to have the roller replaced - cost over $700. Then a year later, the other side rolling door went out. Then, the rear hatch struts totally…
Right front brake makes a grinding noise when braking. Car is under warranty, but dealer refuses to remedy the issue as they are stating a remedy is being supplied by Honda without commitment as to when it will be addressed. This is a safety issue.*jb
Drag to your current mileage. Numbers are derived from this vehicle's complaint history.
A vehicle that runs out of fuel and stalls has an increased risk of a crash.
A fuel leak increases the risk of a fire.
A leak of brake fluid could lead to a change in brake pedal feel and overtime a degradation in braking performance increasing the risk of a crash.
It's got known weak points. With a reliability score of 5.0 out of 10 based on 829 owner complaints filed with NHTSA, the 2005 Honda Odyssey has a higher-than-average rate of reported issues. The areas to watch are listed above. Whether it's worth owning depends on price, condition, and how much repair exposure you can absorb.
The 2005 Honda Odyssey is a higher-risk ownership prospect. Repair exposure runs above average — only with money set aside and eyes open. The record behind that call: Body: 112 complaints, classified severe, failures cluster 54,000–138,000 mi; Brakes: 62 complaints, classified severe, failures cluster 7,594–35,000 mi; Reliability score 5.0/10 — around the segment average; 9 recall campaigns on file. This is our read of the federal complaint and recall data — not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
Inspect the engine first — it's the most-reported issue on this model, with 122 owner complaints filed. Typical failure occurs around 80,490 miles. Average repair cost runs about $3,100 at an independent shop. Also confirm any open recalls have been completed by running the VIN, and ask for service records covering the problem areas listed above.
It scores 5.0 out of 10 on our NHTSA-based read of 829 owner complaints. The main thing to watch is engine. Typical failure occurs around 80,490 miles. Priced fairly and clean on inspection, it's a reasonable used buy. Our data covers what this model is known for — pair it with a vehicle-history report on the VIN to see what that specific car has been through.
Based on NHTSA records, the most-reported issue is engine, with 122 complaints filed. Typical failure occurs around 80,490 miles. Average repair cost runs about $3,100 at an independent shop.
The engine is one of the costlier repair items. Average repair cost runs about $3,100 at an independent shop. Typical failure occurs around 80,490 miles. Catching early warning signs can sometimes extend life by 20–30,000 miles.
Paste your VIN into the decoder at the top of this page. We pull live from NHTSA, so you'll see exactly which campaigns apply to your vehicle and whether the dealer has logged the fix. Recall repairs are always free regardless of mileage or warranty status.
Math is straightforward: a quality service contract runs $1,800–3,500 over 3 years. With 829 complaints on file and the costliest repair averaging $3,100, one major failure more than pays for it. The catch is reading the contract — many providers exclude wear items and require pre-authorization, so cheaper plans are not always better value.