Tl* the contact owns a 2005 Ford taurus. The contact stated that the vehicle accelerated when the consumer hit some black ice. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was found that the throttle body had failed. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 118,463. Updated 02/11/2014 *bf the consumer was…
2005 Ford Taurus cruise control problems
critical 473 complaints filed with NHTSA · avg repair $600 · see cruise control across all vehicles →
Failure mileage
Complaints
473
Recalls
0
Avg fix
$600
15crashes
1fire
7injuries
1fatality
When does it fail?
Of the 473 cruise control complaints filed for the 2005 Ford Taurus, here's the actual mileage breakdown — failures cluster heaviest at 75,000-100,000 mi.
0-25k
25-50k
50-75k
75-100k
100-125k
125-150k
150k+
Each bar shows the share of total complaints filed at that mileage range. Peak failure window highlighted. Some owners report problems earlier; some make it well past 150,000 miles symptom-free. Maintenance habits and driving conditions shift the curve as much as mileage alone.
How fast does it fail?
Cumulative share of the 11 mileage-bearing cruise control complaints filed against the 2005 Ford Taurus by each odometer reading. Median failure: 81,000 mi.
10% have failed by50,000 mi
Half the fleet by81,000 mi
90% have failed by130,000 mi
Curve based on owner-reported odometer mileage at the time of complaint. Reflects when owners filed, not when symptoms first appeared. Maintenance habits and driving conditions shift the curve.
What stands out
Of the 10 model years of Ford Taurus we track for cruise control problems, this one carries the most owner complaints on file — 473.
Cruise control accounts for 61% of every owner complaint on file for this vehicle — the dominant problem area across 12 categories tracked.
The failure pattern owners describe
Buyer takeaway: The 2005 Taurus has a well-documented unintended acceleration issue, most commonly linked to cruise control cable detachment from the throttle linkage, which can leave the throttle stuck open and brakes feeling ineffective. This is a serious safety risk that has persisted unfixed for years; expect to either disconnect the cruise control cable yourself or pay for replacement ($180–$600), and test-drive carefully before purchase.
Owners report a pattern of unintended acceleration in 2005 Taurus models, with the most frequent cause being cruise control cable detachment from the throttle linkage. The cable slips off its mounting point (made of plastic) and wedges against the throttle, keeping it open. When this happens, the engine idles at 3,000–5,000 rpm even in Park, and the car accelerates on its own without driver input to the gas pedal.
The problem strikes without warning: a driver may be slowing for a stop sign, approach an intersection, or sit at a red light when the engine suddenly revs and the car lurches forward. Hard braking barely slows the vehicle, and some owners describe the brakes feeling weak or mushy—likely because high engine vacuum from the stuck throttle drains power-brake assist. Shifting to Neutral or turning off the engine are the emergency measures owners report using.
A temporary fix works immediately: disconnecting the cruise control cable entirely eliminates acceleration but kills cruise control. Professional repairs involve replacing the cable assembly, costing $180–$600 depending on the shop. Even after replacement, some owners report the problem recurring within weeks.
Dealers and Ford have been inconsistent. Some dealerships claim unfamiliarity with the issue; others have tried replacing throttle bodies, cleaning injectors, or running diagnostics without addressing the cable. NHTSA opened investigation PE12005 in 2012 but closed it without issuing a recall. Owners express frustration that despite hundreds of complaints over years, no factory-wide fix or mandatory recall has been issued.
Same Ford Taurus cruise control reports on nearby years: 2006 · 2007 · 2008
Failure modes owners describe
Cruise control cable detachment/disconnection from throttle linkage
The cruise control cable becomes disconnected or decoupled from its mounting point on the throttle body/lever. When disconnected, the cable can lodge against the throttle linkage, preventing it from returning to idle and causing unintended acceleration. The plastic retainer and mounting surfaces wear over time, making reconnection difficult or impossible.
When: Intermittent; occurs across all mileages, from 50,000 to 168,000 miles; failures reported within weeks to months of purchase or after years of ownership
Symptoms owners cite: Unintended acceleration without driver input to gas pedal; Engine RPM stuck at 3,000–5,000 rpm even in Park; Difficulty stopping; brakes require hard pressure or fail to slow vehicle adequately; Engine continues to rev when shifted to Neutral; Car lurches forward when shifted into Drive; Cruise control non-functional or won't disengage
Repairs/costs cited: Owners report disconnecting the cruise control cable entirely as a temporary fix; mechanic repairs involve replacing the cruise control cable or cable assembly. One dealer charged $600 for replacement; another charged $180. One shop applied unknown substance to cable to keep it in place (not permanent fix). Disconnection provides immediate relief but eliminates cruise control function.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: Ford initially stated no recall issued. Some dealers unfamiliar with the problem. NHTSA investigation PE12005 closed in 2012 without identifying a safety-related defect; agency reserved right to reopen. Owners report Ford said 'not enough fatalities' to warrant recall. Some dealers attempted cleaning/decarbing throttle or replacing injectors instead of cable.
Throttle stuck in open position (cable-induced or throttle body failure)
Throttle plate remains open, causing continuous high RPM and uncontrollable acceleration. May result from cruise control cable interference or, in some cases, throttle body wear, clogging, or internal throttle mechanism failure. Repair attempts include throttle cleaning, replacement, or sensor diagnostics with varying success.
When: Variable; some cases intermittent over months or years; others sudden after normal operation; one case recurred shortly after throttle body replacement
Symptoms owners cite: Engine RPM holds at elevated level (2,000–5,000 rpm) without pedal input; Uncontrollable acceleration while driving or at idle in Park; Throttle does not respond normally to pedal input; Sensation of 'brake creeping' or engine fighting brakes; Engine makes loud revving noise
Repairs/costs cited: Mechanics have replaced throttle body, cleaned throttle/injectors, attempted fuel system work. One case involved replacing ignition coil. Success is inconsistent; one owner reported throttle replacement followed by recurrence of high RPM and lurching within 45 minutes. Brake wear (rotor warping) documented as consequence of hard braking to manage uncontrolled acceleration.
Unintended acceleration with difficulty braking (multifactorial—cable and brake feedback)
When cruise control cable is engaged or stuck, throttle remains open and brake booster assist is compromised (lower intake manifold vacuum), making the brakes feel sluggish or ineffective despite being mechanically sound. This combination creates a critical safety situation where the driver cannot stop the vehicle without maximum brake effort.
When: Intermittent; occurs during normal driving after release of brake or while braking to slow
Symptoms owners cite: Sudden acceleration despite foot off gas pedal; Brakes feel weak or 'mushy' and do not stop vehicle normally; Engine revving at 3,000–5,000 rpm while brakes are depressed; Brake pedal requires extreme pressure to slow vehicle; Brake rotors warp or pads overheat/smoke from prolonged hard braking
Repairs/costs cited: One owner had front brake rotors completely redone; another had brakes replaced. Owners report tapping gas pedal or revving engine in Neutral briefly restores normal braking feel. Disconnecting cruise control cable eliminates the problem.
Gas pedal physically stuck or unresponsive
Accelerator pedal becomes stuck in depressed or partially depressed position, or feels mushy and unresponsive. Owners report needing to manually lift pedal with foot or press it hard multiple times to unstick it. May occur concurrently with cruise control cable detachment or as separate mechanical failure.
When: Intermittent; occurs at various speeds and road conditions
Symptoms owners cite: Pedal stuck in depressed position and won't return to idle; Pedal feels mushy or unresponsive; Pedal requires manual lifting or hard downward pump to release; Temporary relief after jamming pedal or revving engine
Repairs/costs cited: Owners have disconnected cruise control as workaround; some tested by lifting pedal manually during operation. No permanent repair mentioned beyond cruise cable replacement or throttle service.
Synthesized from 473 NHTSA owner complaints — unverified consumer allegations, summarized for patterns. The verbatim filings appear below.
What owners are reporting 12 most recent
2 times since sept. 2018 the cable under hood to accelerator came off while I was driving making it very difficult to stop. The first time I was driving on a state highway at 60 MPH. The most recent I was driving in a subdivision at 10 MPH.the RPM's increased drastically. I feel this is a major safety issue with this issue and Ford needs to fix it. I got this from my elderly mother and I am…
Vehicle started to accelerate and kept going faster. Brakes would not stop the vehicle and ended up in a cotton field. This is the third time the acceleration stuck. Tapping the gas peddle worked the first two but not the last time. It knocked a hole in the transmission pan and did something to the brake line. *tr
My car continued to accelerate on its own. *tr
Car accelerates on its own while driving.
I was on the interstate going about 70. I put on the cruise control but it wouldn't engage. I tried several times then gave up. Not 5 minutes later I tried to go slower, about 65, and the car sped up to 70 on its own. I was confused because the cruise control light was not lit, whereas it was lit when it wouldn't work. I pressed the off button many times but it kept trying to accelerate. My…
I was driving down a very busy intersection when I notice that the car was accelerating without my foot on the gas pedal. I tried to place my foot on the gas pedal but the car kept going. My husband and I were terrified. I pulled to the side and placed the car in park. Once I did that the rpms raised to about 4. I was so scared that the engine was going to blow I quickly cut the car off. I sat…
1. Sudden unintended acceleration caused by speed control cable detaching from shaft on throttle body due to wear, 2. Occurs every few days, can cause crash 3. Temporary fix is to drill a hole and place a cotter pin thru the speed control cable end to retain the cable end to the shaft. *tr
While driving with my some in the car on an interstate, I tried to set my cruise control. The cruise would register that it was set but it would not hold the speed that was set. After a little while my car accelerated on its own. After trying to apply the brakes, which just sounded like it was grinding the brakes because it didn't want to idle down. Put the car in neutral, the rpms revved over…
Car accelerates on its own. I have to put the card in neutral and kick the accelerator to get it to decelerate. I googled it and it sounds like the frayed accelerator problem that has been reported on the internet. *tr
Had cruise control trouble with your 2005 Ford Taurus?
File a complaint with NHTSA → It's free, official, and how every report above got here — owner filings are the federal safety record this page is built on.
Common questions
How serious is the cruise control problem on the 2005 Ford Taurus?
It's a serious issue. 473 complaints have been filed, including 15 reports involving a crash and 1 fatality(ies). We've classified it as critical based on NHTSA's reported outcomes.
At what mileage does the cruise control typically fail?
Across the 431 complaints that reported odometer mileage, most cruise control failures cluster between 71,000 and 119,400 miles, with the median around 94,685. A quarter of owners report trouble before 71,000; a quarter make it past 119,400. Maintenance history matters more than the odometer alone — this is the reported failure window, not a guarantee.
What does it cost to fix?
Independent shops typically charge around $600 for cruise control repairs on this vehicle. Dealer pricing tends to run 20-40% higher. The exact figure depends on the specific failure mode, parts availability, and your local labor rates. If you're outside factory warranty, an extended service contract often covers this category.
Are there any recalls related to cruise control?
No active recalls currently cover cruise control issues on this vehicle. The complaints filed represent owner-reported failures that haven't risen to the level of a manufacturer-issued recall — but they're still worth knowing about before you buy or budget for repairs.
Related
Complaint and recall data sourced from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
public records database. Verify the raw federal record at
nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2005/Ford/Taurus.
Severity ratings are derived from reported crashes, fires, injuries, and fatalities. Repair cost estimates are
independent-shop national averages and may differ in your area. Some links on this page are affiliate links.