The 2006 Saturn Ion generates persistent complaints about ignition and electrical system failures that often recur even after dealer repairs. The most common issue is the ignition cylinder locking up or allowing the key to become stuck, preventing owners from turning off the car or removing the key. Owners report costs of $180 to over $700 for ignition replacements, and some find the problem returns within months.
A second major failure is the Passlock anti-theft system locking the starter during cold weather, forcing owners to wait 10–30 minutes between restart attempts in temperatures below 40°F. Dealerships have been unable or unwilling to fix this, claiming they cannot replicate it.
Stalling while driving occurs without warning—one owner lost power at 45 mph in traffic, another while turning. Some of these cases were misdiagnosed as computer failures, costing owners $800+ in unnecessary repairs before the ignition switch was identified as the real culprit.
Airbag warning lights come on intermittently or stay lit permanently. In at least one case, a passive kill-switch relay was incorrectly installed in place of the airbag relay during service, disabling the airbag system. Sensor replacement is quoted at $900+, and dealerships have refused to replace burned-out instrument clusters under warranty.
One owner's automatic door locks failed repeatedly due to chafed wiring inside the driver's door, caused by window operation. Fuses blew repeatedly until the root cause was finally diagnosed after the car sat at a dealer for days.
Owners report that Saturn and later GM customer service offered little help, citing warranty expiration or claiming no knowledge of the issues, despite clear evidence of widespread complaints online.
Failure modes owners describe
Ignition cylinder lock-up and key stuck in ignition
The ignition cylinder becomes stuck, trapping the key in the ignition. Sometimes the car cannot be turned off even with the key stuck; in other cases, the key simply cannot be removed. Owners report needing to disconnect the battery or pull fuses to shut down a running engine, and some have had to leave their cars with the key remaining inside.
When: Typically 2–7 years of ownership; one case at 3 years, another at 7 years; reported failures at 82,000 miles to well over 100,000 miles
Symptoms owners cite: Key becomes stuck in the ignition and cannot be turned or removed; Car will not turn off even with the key stuck in the ignition; Key requires jiggling or repeated attempts to remove; Engine continues to run with no way to shut it off by normal means
Repairs/costs cited: Ignition cylinder and/or ignition housing/switch replaced; costs reported: $180–$700+ (one owner paid $250, another $450, another $700). A few owners found no permanent fix despite replacement.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: Some owners initially contacted Saturn/GM; most were told it was out of warranty. GM later sent recall notices (Campaign ID 14V-047). One owner mentioned TSB 04-08-45-005D. A dealership rep told one owner the part is common knowledge as faulty but GM did not initially issue a recall. One owner reported GM told them 'the recall process takes a long time.'
Passlock anti-theft system malfunction (cold-weather start failures)
The Passlock anti-theft system fails to recognize the correct key during cold weather or when the grease in the ignition freezes. The system locks the starter for 10 minutes, forcing owners to wait repeatedly before attempting to start. Owners report needing to warm the ignition area or wait 10–30 minutes between restart attempts.
When: Winter months; temperatures below 40°F, typically 0–30°F; on early mornings; one owner noted it persists even in late spring at 50–70°F
Symptoms owners cite: Engine will not crank; radio and lights work but starter is locked out; Security lock icon appears on the dashboard; Car requires waiting 10–30 minutes before each new start attempt; Multiple failed start attempts (up to 6 in an hour) before the car finally starts; Problem worsens over years of ownership
Codes mentioned: Passlock security system engagement
Repairs/costs cited: No permanent repair identified in the narratives; one owner mentions a dealership suggested reprogramming, but owners report the issue recurs. Service attempts to 'replicate' the problem often fail because it is temperature-dependent. One owner's dealer told them mice were eating wiring (not credible).
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: Saturn/GM customer service representatives told owners they had no record of the problem and could not help. One owner was told that reprogramming would fix it, but it did not. Dealers claim they cannot replicate intermittent cold-start failures and refuse to diagnose.
Vehicle stalling while driving (loss of power/ignition shutdown)
Engine shuts off or loses power suddenly while driving, without warning. Owners report the vehicle decelerating dramatically, losing all power for a moment, then sometimes restarting. In one case, the car stalled on an interstate; in another, it lost power while turning in traffic. Owners often blame a faulty ignition switch that accidentally turns off.
When: Mid-drive (one case at 45 mph in traffic, another at 30 mph turning, another on an interstate); reported as recurring over months
Symptoms owners cite: Engine suddenly shuts off or loses power while driving; Vehicle decelerates sharply and uncontrollably; No warning lights or sounds before the event; Vehicle can usually be restarted after a moment; Battery light may appear on the dashboard
Codes mentioned: Check engine light (some cases)
Repairs/costs cited: One owner had the computer 'motherboard' (body control module) replaced at a cost of $800+ based on incorrect diagnostics, when the real issue was the ignition switch. Another owner's car had an ignition lock cylinder replaced. One required body control module replacement at $852.50.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: One dealership incorrectly diagnosed the problem as a computer motherboard failure and replaced it for $800+, then had no explanation when it happened again. When the ignition recall became public, the owner realized the real culprit was the ignition switch, not the computer. GM has not reimbursed owners for these incorrect repairs.
Ignition switch does not advance to start position
The ignition key will turn partway but cannot advance to the start position, preventing the engine from turning over. The key may get stuck in the run or accessory position. One owner reported the key would turn but not advance beyond the run position to engage the starter.
When: One case at 40,000 miles (when new); another at 100,000 miles (after prior failure at 37,000 miles)
Symptoms owners cite: Key turns but does not advance beyond the run or accessory position; Engine will not crank; starter does not engage; After multiple attempts, jiggling, or changing clutch/transmission position, the car may suddenly start
Repairs/costs cited: Ignition cylinder replaced at owner's expense. One owner's repair cost is not stated. Recurrence within a few years is common.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: No manufacturer action documented in these narratives for this specific mode. One owner was told to contact a dealership, and they eventually fixed it, but the owner has had recurrence.
Airbag light malfunction and failed airbag sensors
The airbag warning light intermittently comes on and goes off. When owners attempt to diagnose the cause, they discover an airbag sensor has shorted out or the relay has been incorrectly replaced with a passive kill-switch relay during a previous repair. One owner reported both airbag lights came on and stayed on months after the ignition was replaced.
When: Intermittently from purchase onwards (one case); onset months after ignition cylinder replacement (another case)
Symptoms owners cite: Airbag warning light comes on, stays on, or flashes intermittently; Passenger airbag light flashes even when only a pocketbook is in the seat; Light does not clear with ignition reset; Sensor detected as shorted
Codes mentioned: Airbag sensor circuit fault
Repairs/costs cited: Airbag sensor replacement quoted at $900+; factory kill-switch relay had been incorrectly placed in the airbag relay location (owner's aftermarket electrical shop corrected this for a charge, then the light recurred). Dealerships refuse to replace the cluster or sensor under warranty after the ignition work.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: One dealership promised free diagnostics because it was a safety issue, then charged $75 for the diagnostic. Another dealership refused to replace the burned-out instrument cluster, saying it was a separate issue from the ignition. GM's initial installation of an aftermarket kill-switch relay in place of the airbag relay was never disclosed to owners.
Instrument cluster malfunction (gauges and warning lights inoperative)
All instrument cluster gauges stop working (speedometer, fuel gauge, temperature gauge), leaving only warning lights that stay on even when the car is off. The cluster may intermittently die and come back to life. One owner reports the ignition switch failure caused the cluster to burn out.
When: After 2+ years of ownership; can persist for months even after ignition switch replacement
Symptoms owners cite: All gauges (speedometer, fuel, temperature) become inoperative; Warning lights remain on continuously, even when the car is off and the key is removed; Gauges may intermittently work and then fail again; No way to know fuel level, speed, or engine temperature
Repairs/costs cited: Cluster replacement required; cost not specified in the narrative, but owner notes it is expensive. Dealer refused to replace the cluster after replacing the ignition switch.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: One dealership mechanic acknowledged that the ignition switch failure caused the cluster to malfunction and 'burned it out,' but the dealership refused to replace it, citing it as a separate issue from the ignition recall.
Random alarm activation (sounding without trigger)
The car's alarm goes off repeatedly for no apparent reason (no nearby vehicles, no person around, no strong wind, owner does not have the alarm set). The alarm sounds 5–6 times in one day, causing the owner to disconnect the battery.
When: 2013 (one case)
Symptoms owners cite: Alarm sounds multiple times (5–6 times in a day) with no known trigger; No external cause identified (no people, wind, or passing trucks)
Repairs/costs cited: No repair achieved; owner disconnected the battery as a workaround. Repair shop could not find the problem when the alarm was not actively sounding.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: None documented. Shop diagnosis: unable to replicate the issue, so no repair attempted.
Electrical system fuse repeatedly blows (door lock/window wiring chafe)
A fuse blows repeatedly in the electrical door lock system. Upon investigation, a wire inside the driver's door for the automatic door lock was chafed and exposed by repeated window rolling, causing shorts.
When: Recurring over approximately one month of normal window use
Symptoms owners cite: Automatic door locks stop working; 'Service vehicle' warning light comes on; The same fuse blows again within days after replacement; Eventually car will not start due to the electrical drain
Repairs/costs cited: Fuse replacement is a temporary fix; the root cause is bare/chafed wiring in the driver's door from window operation. Dealer finally diagnosed the chafed wire after having the car for 1.5 days.
Recalls/TSBs owners mention: No recall or design change mentioned. Dealer charged the owner to diagnose and repair the wiring issue.
Synthesized from 313 NHTSA owner complaints — unverified consumer
allegations, summarized for patterns. The verbatim filings appear below.