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ProblemsByVin Checklist / 2013-TESLA-MODEL-S

Pre-purchase · Buyer's checklist

2013 Tesla Model S inspection checklist

The 2013 Tesla Model S has 1 critical safety recall and a documented pattern of issues across 6 component categories. Before you sign anything, walk through this list with the seller. Skip nothing — the items below come from 459 owner reports already on file with NHTSA.

1 Verify safety recalls before you drive off

Recall fixes are free regardless of warranty status. Ask the seller for proof — or have the dealer pull the VIN history.

Tesla, Inc — fix: Tesla will notify owners, and Tesla Service Centers will replace the passenger frontal air bag modules, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin in March 2018. Owners may contact Tesla customer service at 1-877-798-3752. Tesla's number for this recall is SB-18-20-001.
NHTSA 18V031000 · severity: critical

2 Inspect the electrical

What to look for: Dim or flickering dash lights at idle, slow window operation, intermittent infotainment glitches, parasitic battery drain (dead battery after a few days parked). (168 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $850 · failures cluster ~87,390 mi)

Battery age sticker — most batteries last 3–5 years
Alternator output at idle (13.8–14.5V is healthy)
All exterior lights: headlights both beams, taillights, brake lights, reverse, blinkers
Every interior switch: power windows, locks, mirrors, sunroof, seats
Infotainment cold-start time and touchscreen responsiveness

On the test drive: Cycle through every electronic accessory during the drive — heated seats, defrosters, climate fan on max, cruise control. Glitches show up under load.

See full electrical report for this vehicle →

3 Inspect the suspension

What to look for: Bouncing after bumps, knocking over potholes, sagging on one corner, harsh ride with all the dampening gone. (79 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $900 · failures cluster ~46,857 mi)

Bounce test — push down hard on each corner of the car; it should rebound once and settle, not bounce
Visible struts/shocks behind the wheels for oil leaks
Sway bar end links and bushings (common wear item, $40–$120 to fix)
Ride height — measure wheel-well to ground at all four corners; uneven = bad spring

On the test drive: Drive over a series of bumps or a railroad crossing — clunks point to worn end links, ball joints, or strut mounts.

See full suspension report for this vehicle →

4 Inspect the powertrain

What to look for: Hesitation on takeoff, harsh or delayed shifts, vibration at highway speed, fluid leaks on the driveway under the engine bay or transmission pan. (31 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $2,500 · failures cluster ~98,688 mi)

Transmission fluid color and smell — fresh ATF is red, brown or burnt smell is bad
Engine and transmission mounts (cracks or visible sag)
CV boots front (and rear on AWD) — any tears mean a $300–$800 axle replacement
Driveshaft U-joints and rear differential fluid level on RWD/AWD

On the test drive: Drive 15+ minutes including a freeway on-ramp at full throttle, a steep hill, and stop-and-go traffic. Listen for clunks on shifts, flares between gears, and shudders during light acceleration at 30–50 mph (torque converter symptom).

See full powertrain report for this vehicle →

5 Inspect the steering

What to look for: Wandering on the highway, clunks when turning, slop in the wheel before the tires respond, power steering whine. (29 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $700 · failures cluster ~64,870 mi)

Tire wear pattern — uneven wear across the tread means alignment or worn suspension
Power steering fluid level (where applicable — most newer vehicles are electric)
Tie rod boots and ball joint boots for tears
Steering wheel free play — should be less than 1 inch at the rim

On the test drive: On a smooth highway, take hands off briefly (when safe) — vehicle should track straight. Pulling left or right means alignment or worn front-end parts.

See full steering report for this vehicle →

6 Inspect the cruise control

What to look for: Cruise that won't set, drops out on small inclines, jerky speed adjustment. (16 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $600 · failures cluster ~34,244 mi)

Cruise stalk or steering wheel controls — every button function
On a flat road at highway speed, set cruise and verify it holds within 1–2 mph
Brake switch behind the pedal — if loose, cruise won't engage

See full cruise control report for this vehicle →

7 Inspect the body

What to look for: Paint mismatch between panels (prior accident), rust on rocker panels and wheel wells, door alignment gaps that don't match side-to-side, weatherstrip wear. (14 owner complaints on this vehicle · typical repair $1,500 · failures cluster ~49,833 mi)

Panel gaps — should be even and consistent; tight on one side means body work
Trunk and hood weatherstrips for cracks
Inside the trunk, under the spare — water staining means a leak
Door hinge bolts for paint dust (telltale of door replacement)
VIN plate on the dash matches the VIN sticker on the door jamb

See full body report for this vehicle →

8 Paperwork — before you sign

The seller's transparency on these tells you what kind of seller you're dealing with.

Title in seller's name (not "open title" or "signed by previous owner")
Service records — at least the last 24 months
VIN on the dash matches the door jamb sticker and the title
Run a paid vehicle history report (Carfax or AutoCheck) — accident, salvage, odometer rollback
Confirm any open recalls have been completed (NHTSA VIN lookup)
If financing, get the rate in writing before you set foot on the lot

Inspection items derived from 459 owner complaints and 11 active recall campaigns filed with NHTSA on the 2013 Tesla Model S. Category-specific guidance is written by ProblemsByVin contributors with ASE-certified mechanic review. This checklist is meant to surface known patterns — it doesn't replace a paid pre-purchase inspection by a qualified shop, which we recommend for any used vehicle priced over a few thousand dollars.