Free. Instant. No signup. Pulls recalls and complaints for your exact vehicle.
Couldn't find that VIN. Check the digits and try again.
Light NHTSA footprint — 19 owner complaints and 1 active recall campaign. Either a clean record or thin data; we'll show what's there.
Solid reliability overall. Common issues are concentrated in a few systems.
Buyable on the data — keep up the usual maintenance and inspect normally.
Our read of the federal NHTSA complaint and recall record for this exact year and model — not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection. How we score.
Here's what this model is known to do — so you can inspect for it, price it in, or make the seller fix it before you sign.
Run the VIN from the listing — 1 active recall on this model. Recall repairs are always free.
Verdict for buyers: 8.4/10 model. The priciest documented failure is fuel system (~$1,200) — get the seller's service records for it or inspect closely. Otherwise an average-risk used buy at a fair price.
We tell you what this model is known for and what to inspect — a vehicle-history report tells you what this exact car has been through. Smart buyers get both.
See the full pre-purchase inspection checklist →A noise, a warning light, a repair quote, "should I buy this?" — get an answer grounded in this vehicle's actual NHTSA record, not generic advice.
Answers use this vehicle's NHTSA complaint & recall record — owner-reported and unverified, not a diagnosis. Verify anything safety-critical with a mechanic.
The LED lights in the instrument gauge cluster have gone out. It happened while driving and they remain out. This is a well documented issues in many of the forums. Although they had extended the warranty at one point this is an issue that sill needs to be addressed. Here is one…
About a year ago, every once in a while at a stop light with the car idling, we would hear a slight rattling noise. But every time we brought it to the dealer, which is only a few miles from our house, the noise was not there or not enough to bring it into shop to be checked out…
I noted an error message on my dash regarding a failure to the ABS.I went to the dealer who pulled a code "c1111" for a failed hydraulic control assembly; a very expensive repair. My car has only 19k miles, and is lightly driven. Online research on gt-r blogs, and elsewhere…
1. Many leds in dash cluster have gone out which is a safety issue driving at night. 2. There is a failure of the am/fm tuner. Both issues are known to Nissan but they will not fix in my car stating that my VIN number was not affected which it most certainly is:…
Drag to your current mileage. Numbers are derived from this vehicle's complaint history.
Extra play in the steering wheel or a loss of steering may increase the risk of a crash.
Mostly yes. With a reliability score of 8.4 out of 10 based on 19 owner complaints filed with NHTSA, the 2009 Nissan GT-R is generally a sound vehicle. The areas to watch are listed in the top problem section above — most are budget items, not deal-breakers.
On the NHTSA data, the 2009 Nissan GT-R does not need avoiding. Buyable on the data — keep up the usual maintenance and inspect normally. The record behind that call: No systemic severe-failure pattern in the complaint record; Reliability score 8.4/10 — above the segment average; 1 recall campaign on file. This is our read of the federal complaint and recall data — not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
Inspect the electrical first — it's the most-reported issue on this model, with 6 owner complaints filed. Typical failure occurs around 24,599 miles. Average repair cost runs about $850 at an independent shop. Also confirm any open recalls have been completed by running the VIN, and ask for service records covering the problem areas listed above.
It scores 8.4 out of 10 on our NHTSA-based read of 19 owner complaints. The main thing to watch is electrical. Typical failure occurs around 24,599 miles. Priced fairly and clean on inspection, it's a reasonable used buy. Our data covers what this model is known for — pair it with a vehicle-history report on the VIN to see what that specific car has been through.
Based on NHTSA records, the most-reported issue is electrical, with 6 complaints filed. Typical failure occurs around 24,599 miles. Average repair cost runs about $850 at an independent shop.
The electrical is one of the costlier repair items. Average repair cost runs about $850 at an independent shop. Typical failure occurs around 24,599 miles. Catching early warning signs can sometimes extend life by 20–30,000 miles.
Paste your VIN into the decoder at the top of this page. We pull live from NHTSA, so you'll see exactly which campaigns apply to your vehicle and whether the dealer has logged the fix. Recall repairs are always free regardless of mileage or warranty status.
Math is straightforward: a quality service contract runs $1,800–3,500 over 3 years. With 19 complaints on file and the costliest repair averaging $850, one major failure more than pays for it. The catch is reading the contract — many providers exclude wear items and require pre-authorization, so cheaper plans are not always better value.