2011 Mazda Mazda3 owner complaints

I purchased a used 2011 Mazda 3 in march 2019. I didn't notice it at the time but the air bag light was flashing a code 16 on the dash. I took it to my local dealership and had to pay $100 diagnostic fee. They told me it was the passenger seat weight sensor and the two parts would need to be replaced. The cost was around $800. I understand that components on a car may go bad over time but should something as important as an air bag sensor go bad in less than 9 years? And if it does, should I have to pay $800 for my safety when it should be the company that covers that. I've read that this is a common problem and there are no recalls. If I am in an accident and I have a passenger in the front seat, their airbag will not go off and that person could be seriously hurt or killed.

My wife was involved in a serious accident were the automobile was declared a total loss. The air bags never deploy. The car was in motion and she was severely rear ended. The approximate travel speed was 65 miles per hr on there freeway.

Air bag light on for passenger seat. Passenger air bag will not deploy in a crash because of defective wiring and weight sensor. This is a widespread problem that puts passengers at risk. If you look online thousands of people have the same problem.

"takata recall" my airbag light is still on time by time for unknown reason . I bring this to attention on time in my bumper to bumper guarantee in my dealer on 2011, dealer said that is not a problem at that time. I received a letter by mail on oct 2017 that a possible settlement is related to air bag , I am worried that something is wrong in my airbag ,so I advised my dealer they refused to check by free and asking me to paid for a review because there is not recall register in my vehicle. Well I previously advised on time on 2011 about this situation, that is the ligt is on time by time that means something is wrong is not fair, that I need to paid for a review work . The vehicle is in motion when this happened again and again with unknown reason when I informed on time. Now that I kn

Passenger airbag off and it's always on. The icon on the dash is indicating code 16. Nobody is seating on the passenger side.

While driving a loud gun like sound happens. Sound will not turn off even with the vehicle off or volume turned down. This issue is related to the bose amp failure which the dealership has refused to fix for free or diagnose for free. Contacted bose and they have confirmed this is a known issue they no longer honor and referred me to the dealership. The Mazda dealership will charge $1300 just for the amp alone.

The front lights seem to build condensation and cut down on the amount of light that is emitted from them at night, leading to a huge safety issue. It also affects the turn signals and can lead to catastrophic electronic failure that costs over $1,000 to fix that Mazda claims is not covered by their factory warranty. This has become a huge problem and one quick search on the internet turns up hundreds of complaints from people with the same problem. Please, issue a recall in order to fix the affected units and force Mazda's hand to lay the cost burden on them and not the customer as it is completely on their manufacturing techniques that do not provide a proper seal around the lighting that allows this to occur. Dealership salesmen are schooled to tell customers that it will "burn off" as

The battery appears to be dead. After jump start, the car works for about 3 days. The vehicle will not start if left to sit over night without driving. The battery will not power the vehicle and will not allow fuel to exchange for a push start (manual 5 speed). The car was taken to beaverton Mazda dealership in beaverton oregon. They tested for electrical leaks and found none. Did not replace battery. Dealership gave battery a slow charge overnight. The battery was tested and the dealership advised battery was in like new condition. The car dies 6 days later after not being driven for 1 day. Taken back to the dealership and more tests are done, was charged for an inspection bill that says nothing is wrong. Almost 1 year later, car not driven for 1 day and battery is dead. Seems to leak ele

Transmission Control Module Failed while driving. Do to this there was a loss in ability to properly shift which made driving dangerous. There has been several online reports and accounts about this specific car signaling a check engine light coming on, AT light coming on and when other indirect or incorrect codes like Solenoid (A), (B), or (C). Luckily I did not crash therefore, I have no inspections have been necessary by police or insurance representatives. But I did have my local mechanic shop diagnose the problem. I noticed the car shifted a little weird but, no lights, warning, or messages came prior to failure. In the first couple of minutes prior to the first failure, was a simple check engine light which read a code for the Solenoid. Local shop diagnosed Transmission Control Modu

I was driving it and randomly the AT and TC , and check engine light came on and the car went into limp mode, after doing some research it appears to happen to all 2009-2011 Mazda3's and it's a safety hazard. It's a safety hazard because of when it's stuck in limp mode sometimes if your at a light or something it'll start shifting and if you're not holding the brake completely down it will make the car lurch forward like 2-3 feet more if you don't react fast enough. This is a serious problem as it can cause a wreck. And you never know when it's going to happen there will be no symptoms it will just go into limp mode sometimes it'll rapidly go in and out and I'm sure that's causing damage to my transmission. Please make Mazda recall the TCM part and replace it. Thank you so much for taking

The dashboard is separating from the instrument panel. There is a growing gap. It occurred over time and is continuing to get worse.

The contact owns a 2011 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the clutch became inoperable. There were no warning lights illuminated. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified but no additional assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

Premature clutch failure. Mazda3 with manual transmission. Clutch suddenly burn out and cannot shift gear while driving. Heard something was falling down under the clutch and then smell smoky odor. Car dead in middle of local road. Only have 16,xxx miles and 2.5 years on this car. Contact the Mazda experience center, but they think it is a normal worn out part and warranty would not take care of it. However, I think there is possible a design defect in their clutch. *tr

Tire wear to the point of replacement @ 21k miles. *tr

December 6, 2018 dear NHTSA, I have a 2011 Mazda 3 with four (4) westlake rp18 205/55r16 91v radial touring tires. I am writing this letter to notify the company that at least this lot of tire or this tire line is structurally defective. I have attached pictures on page 2. There are several implication to this defect including bending of tire shield, easy punctuation and easy blow-out. All of these instances can lead to traffic accidents and even death. For instance, recently road obstructions punctured both of my 2 back tires. These tires were flat within 30 minutes while I was out shopping and a 20 minutes driving distance from my home. I purchased a foot air pump to put enough air in my tires to travel one block away to the auto shop to replace both tires. Furthermore, I drove at

Mechanic's report 12/28/2019: "right front (passenger side) headlight assembly has major moisture contamination. HID controller failure due to moisture; HID bulb out. Repair est. $1,500 - $2,000." my 2011 Mazda 3 mileage is 36,915. I will take this to Mazda service dept. On 1/2/2020 for evalutaion. Their repair est. On phone was $2,000+ - parts only. This is a known problem reported online by many owners of this make and year. Clearly this is a factory defect issue. One that has caused accidents at night. (I first noticed moisture sometime after a drive-thru car wash 3 months ago.)

The contact owns a 2011 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the steering wheel started to shake. The contact stated that the tire pressure warning light and check engine warning lights intermittently illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the suspension, seat connector, and an unknown software needed to be updated. The contact then stated that due to the suspension failure, the tires were worn prematurely. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was advised to call the NHTSA Hotline for assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 170,000.

Hood latch striker rusts at its welding point. If it separates from the hood, following may occur during vehicle movement: 1. Hood opens and impacts driver front visibility 2. Hood brakes the windshield and potentially injures the driver 3. Hood separates from the vehicle and impacts other drivers (behind)

I stopped at a stop sign and my car started accelerating as if the accelerator was fully depressed. My foot was squarely on the brake at the time but I was being pulled slowly forward on to a busy roadway. I am an experienced driver and was able to turn the car sharply to the right along the shoulder to avoid oncoming traffic. I shifted into park, and then shut the engine off. My foot placement was no where near the accelerator, and there were no other obstructions (I.e. Carpets). When I restarted the car the engine sounded normal. As an engineer, I am fairly certain that what ever happened was electronic in nature, not a mechanical obstruction or sticking linkage (I did not touch the gas pedal when I restarted). Prior to this incident I had been driving slow though a business park

Driving from wisconsin to chicago illinois the power steering failed. When I stopped at a toll booth and started on the road again, the power steering was ok as soon as the car started to move. Same thing happened again on the same day driving on south on hwy i55 about 30 miles from home. When I stopped at a stop light coming into town and then left the stop light, again the power steering returned to normal. On another day, it happened one time after the car had been parked on an inclined. I backed the car up and could feel the power steering was gone but after the stop and then going forward, the power steering was ok. Again another day, it happened backing out of my garage but after stopping and then going forward, it was ok once again. Stopping the vehicle seems to cause the pow